ISLAND PEAK 6189 m / 20,3015 ft & AMA DABLAM 6856 m / 22,494 ft EXPEDITION

The combination of these two majestic mountains in the Himalayan range will make for a significant experience and a strong sense of accomplishment.

 

Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, and offers an excellent and challenging climb. The hike towards Everest base camp allows us to see and enjoy the view of the highest and most astonishing peaks in the world.

 

This climb is ideal for mountaineers with a solid climbing and mountaineering background on high altitude expeditions. This particular route requires to climb comfortably WI 3 and 4 on ice, and to be solid in climbing with hiking shoes/mountaineering boots on class 4th and some moderated class 5th terrains on rock. Most of the route on Ama Dablam consists of fixed lines, so you'll also need a high level of competence ascending and descending on fixed ropes and passing anchors. I highly recommend practicing multi pitch climbs on ice and rock to gain experience and practice using all the mechanical devises for climbing and descending before the expedition.

Itinerary: 

Day 1: 
Arrive in Kathmandu


Day 2: 
Gear check. Optional sightseeing Kathmandu Valley


Day 3: Lukla 9383ft - 2860 m & Phakding 8562 ft - 2610 m. 
This day we'll fly to Lukla. After meeting our Sherpas and organizing the gear, we'll hike for 3 hrs to Phakding. We'll stay at Tea Houses overnight.


Day 4: Namche Bazaar 11,286 ft - 3440 m. 
We'll hike for about 5 hrs to Namche Bazaar.


Day 5: Deboche 12,664 ft - 3860 m. 
5 hr hike to Deboche and visit the monastery in the afternoon. (optional)


Day 6: Dingboche 14,468 ft - 4410 m.
5 hr hike to Dingboche. 


Day 7: Lobuche 16,207 ft - 4940 m. 
4 hr hike to Lobuche.


Day 8: Gorak Shep/Kala Patar 18,208 ft - 5550 m.

 
3 hr hike to Gorak Shep and 3 hr climb to Kala Patar, this a perfect point to view the highest Himalayan mountains.


Day 9: Everest Base Camp 17,388 ft - 5300 m. 
Hike to Everest base camp and return to Lobuche.


Day 10: Kongma-La Pass/Chhukung 15,518 ft - 4730m. 
9 hr hike over Kongma-La Pass (5535 m / 18,159 ft) and on to Chhukung. 


Day 11: Rest Day. 
Ropes training and rest day in Chhukung.


Day 12: Chhukung Ri 18,208 ft - 5550m. 
6 hr ascent of Chhukung Ri.


Day 13: Island Peak Base Camp 16,240 ft - 4970 m. 
3 hr hike to Island Peak Base Camp. 


Day 14: Island Peak Summit Day 20,305 ft - 6189 m. 
10 – 12 hr summit day of Island Peak. Return to Base Camp.


Day 15: Rest Day.
Rest day or weather window day.
 
Day 16: Chhukung 15,388 ft - 4730 m.
6 hr hike to to Chhukung.


Day 17: Pangboche 13,074 ft - 3985 m. 
3 – 5 hr hike to Pangboche. 


Day 18: Ama Dablam Base Camp 14,858 ft - 4529 m.
Hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp. 


Day 19: Rest Day
We'll have a resting recovering day at base camp before ascending to the higher camps

.

Day 20: Advanced Base Camp 17,775 ft - 5415 m. 
Day hike to ABC/Yak camp 


Day 21: Camp One 19,051 ft - 5807 m.
Move to Camp 1 (5807 m / 19,051 ft)


Day 22: Camp Two 19,895 ft - 6064 m.
Move to Camp 2. This is going to be the day when we begin to use the fixed lines in a very exposed rocky slab, and pitch tents over a sharp ridge.


Day 23: Ama Dablam Summit Day 22,494 ft – 6856 m. 
We will wake with an early Alpine start to climb towards exposed passes, rock, and ice that leads to a steep slope which heads towards the summit. 

This can also be an extra day in case of bad weather.


Day 24:

Second Summit bid or hike to Camp One


Day 25: 
Hike out to Base Camp


Day 26: 
Hike to Pangboche


Day 27: 
Hike to Namche Bazaar


Day 28: 
Hike to Lukla


Day 29: 
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu


Day 30: 
Fly out


Trip includes:

  • Nepalese government royalty fees
  • All expedition organizational requirements
  • All climbing and hiking permits
  • Air tickets within Nepal-Lukla
  • All team equipment (ropes, cooking tents, sleeping tents)
  • All expedition staff, including qualified IFMGA mountain guide in a 1 to 2 ratio
  • Experienced Sherpa support 1 to 2 ratio
  • All food during wilderness components
  • Sherpa porter for the advanced base camps              

             


NOT INCLUDED:

  • Flight tickets to and from Nepal
  • Hotels and meals in Katmandu
  • Nepalese airport entry visa
  • Purchases of bottled water on the hikes, gifts, alcohol
  • Other charges at lodges, tea houses such as showers, internet accesses, battery re-charging
  • Personal gear and clothes
  • Personal travel insurance/medical/trip cancellation/rescue insurance
  • Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from expedition
  • Excess baggage charges over 30kg of personal luggage
  • Any costs associated with early departure from expedition
  • Gratuities for guides and sherpas


I highly recommend Travelex Insurance or similar to protect your trip and to provide emergency medical coverage. Travelex also includes coverage of pre-existing conditions if booked within 21 days of trip deposit.